Fashion history lesson on “the collar”
Speaking of collars had to start with shirts, in fact, before the 15th century, the old ancestors were dressed in cooler clothes. Adam Eve was not wearing at all. Even after the clothes slowly become more, the chest is basically inclined to “open” design. It wasn’t until the end of the Renaissance that (that is, around the 15th century) people began to wrap their chests tighter. And the shirt, is at this time established!
A shirt that is somewhere between the underwear and the vest. In terms of fashion at the time, the embroidered armor, the inside exposed snow white and meticulous shirt collar and lotus sleeves, is the standard of the upper class. Wearing a variety of soft linen shirts and picnicking in the vast and rich estate, it was the aesthetic taste of that generation.
And the noble representative of the nobles, of course, is the legendary Queen Elizabeth I, she ah, can be said to be the face of the great generation of the face. But the beginning of the collar, is not our familiar two sharp collar, but the Queen’s neck of the kind of “shy circle” (English name is called Ruff), this kind of hundred-shaped collar, whether a gentleman or a lady can use, but of course the bigger the circle is more expensive. It was not until the latter time that the Queen suddenly wanted to be a little more delicate, and then removed the section of the chest, which turned into a half-circle of shame, and began to have the shape of two collars and neckline.
However, how ever, a single form of collar can meet the needs of the royal family, so the various tailors began to compete with each other, driving a variety of collar design. Between the 16th and 18th centuries, it was an era when the aristocracy was extremely luxurious, and it became the subject of many films, such as Elizabeth’s glorious years, the Beauty machine, Romeo and Juliet, and so on. After introducing the ancestral collar control, we can now come to class with the characteristics and history of various collars.
Below are the 10 most common collars, with the previous one on the left and the modern design on the right.
TOP 10 POPULAR COLLARS
1. Barrymore collar
The deformation of the basic anti-collar, the large collar and the sharp finish are his characteristics. Originally known as the “tapered collar” tapered collar, it was later used by John Barrymore, a famous actor in the 1970s, so it gradually became known by his name. Usually like and a relatively large tie to do with, is a more American style.
2. Buster Brown collar
Large, flat round collar, width and shoulders, sometimes dotted with lotus edges. In 1902, the whole of Europe and the United States was in a frenzy of children’s comics, the main character of the comics is called Buster Brown, comic style funny humor, the focus is that Buster wears clothes and shoes are really sophisticated, so he wears the most frequently wearing this collar also became a fashion.
3. Cape collar
A collar like a cloak, softly coated on the shoulder. Originating in the Middle Ages, many of the thymus of the dress were designed relatively low, so the ladies would cover a light short-swing ingecloak on the outside, lest they go away.
4. Detachable collar (false-collar)
A removable collar that freely matches any top. It is said that this kind of collar has a moving little story, at the end of the 19th century because of the constant war, the people’s living materials are quite lacking, don’t say fashion, even eat full have problems, a family all year to the fabric, only enough for one person to make a piece of clothing. Some housewives are poor thinking, invented the fake collar this kind of “fake shirt”. Let the husband live in poverty and poverty, but still not lose the dignity. Such warm small thinking, but also reflects the feelings of the whole era.
5. Eton collar
Eton is a century-old English boarding school where many of the crown princes and nobles studied their childhoods. And Eton collar is from this high school uniform to get the inspiration, straight snow white small folding collar, is the embodiment of boarding studentdiscipline, give people a solemn and rigorous feeling.
6. Clerical collar
The ring collar, about an inch high, originated in Italy in the early 17th century, where officials wore the shirt as a symbol of decency and later extended into the uniform of the Holy See clergy.
7. Middy collar sailor collar
Sailor’s suit, also known as navy suit, began to be used in fashion from England at the beginning of the 20th century. Britain had the world’s most powerful maritime fleet, and many fashion designers began to adopt the shawl-like collar out of love. The front is a deep V bow tie, the back is a square cut cloth, it is said that this design is to prevent the sailor because of the wind, endangering the time can immediately grasp the large collar will not fall into the sea.
8. Peter Pan collar
Strictly speaking, Peter Pan is arguably a variant of buster Brown’s collar. The same is a large, flat round collar, but a little smaller in size. Amazingly, if you Google Little Flyer Peter Pan, you’ll find that his collar is not round at all. So why on earth is Peter Panli? The real origin was in 1905, when Maude Adams, a famous Broadway actor, played Peter Pan of Treasure Island on stage. The woman dressed as a man her aptly performed the little boy naughty, alert personality, and caused great media attention. At that time, her dress was this modified round collar, which led to a wave of New York fashion.
9. Ruff collar
A folded collar ring that clings to the neck, this design is the ancestor of all the collars, originated in the Renaissance. The representative figure is Queen Elizabeth, this kind of collar is not only limited to the use of ladies, in the gentleman is also very popular, so we often see the poker clowns in the courtiers are also wearing such collars. In the 16th century, invented a starch pulp clothing technology, so that this collar unlimited expansion to an excessive realm, according to the current examination found that the largest collar aperture radius has 30 cm!
10. Van Dyke
In the 16th century, The Royal Painter Anthony Van Dyck loved to wear this square and shoulder-length, and has appeared in portraits many times. So he later took the name of this party. This square collar features a very large area, and the edges will be decorated with many delicate lace or flowers to symbolize the status of the nobles.
The history of the collar is of historical reasons for each source, and the collar of each era has its own beauty and charm.
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